Wednesday, November 19, 2014

What's In A Name - Cherchez la femme!

Today’s offering is a few mixed drinks named for women.   If you find one to your liking, pass on the story as well as the drink.

The first is named in honor of an African-American woman of note, Susie King Taylor.  Employed as a laundress, nurse, and educator, Susie Taylor wrote a book Reminiscences of My Life with the 33rd United States Colored Troops Late 1st S.C. Volunteers.  An easy read of about 80 pages (available free online) it starts with a brief history of her family, describes her experiences traveling with her husbands unit during its campaigns, then finishes with a brief description of her life in the post-war years.

No mere camp follower, Mrs. Taylor was hired by the regiment as a laundress, though she says she seldom had time to perform that task. There  was a myriad of more pressing needs that kept her busy such as nursing the sick and wounded, helping to clean muskets, packing knapsacks and cartridge boxes, searching for food, and teaching reading and writing to those soldiers interested.  She saw the war from Charleston to Jacksonville and her slim book is a good read for as it gives a uniquely female perspective of life in the "colored troops."

In a late chapter, Taylor writes a very thoughtful essay on issues of race and treatment of veterans in general.  One sentence, appropriate to our proximity to Veterans Day, serves to illustrate how times really do not change:

“I look around now and see the comforts that our younger generation enjoy, and think of the blood that was shed to make these comforts possible for them, and see how little some of them appreciate the old soldiers. My heart burns.”

The Susie Taylor comes from Straub's Manual of Mixed Drinks, 1913.  A simple, pleasant cooler, it is a Cuba Libre with ginger ale substituted for Coke.



Next, we have Elsie Ferguson, a blue-eyed blond star of stage and screen in the early 20th century. Starting as a chorus girl  in 1900, she made her last performance on Broadway in 1943.

In 1919, the women's magazine, Milady Beautiful, described her as "the greatest mistress of poise, grade and artistry."  She was a very private, and self-effacing person active in charity work and an "ardent" suffragette.  During WWI, Elsie Ferguson participated in Liberty Loan drives, the Red Cross and United War work.  Elsie was considered a difficult person, in part, for her dislike of interviews and parties.  A 1918 article in Photoplay described her as "rather cold, indifferent, almost unhappy, and sometimes rather unreal" when off-stage. She was not without humor.  When told a reporter wanted to do a story on how she spent her money, she stated, "I spend it with pleasure."

Today, only one of her silent movies Witness for the Defense, 1919, and one of her talkies Scarlet Pages, 1930, are known to exist.

The Elsie Ferguson Fizz is also from Straub's.


Finally, we have Phoebe Snow. Again we return to 1900.  Phoebe was a model Floradora girl, a shining example of feminine pulchritude and decorum, the "Girl in White,” and like most shining examples - imaginary.  Phoebe, a product of the mind of one W. P. Colton, advertising manager for the Lackawanna Railroad, was as real as Flo, the enthusiastic Progressive Insurance spokesperson.

Phoebe Snow was simply a name made up to fit the first of a series of advertising jingles:
Phoebe Snow about to go
Upon a trip to Buffalo
"My gown keeps white
Both day and night
Upon the Road of Anthracite"

Phoebe, dressed in white like Flo a la 1900, was the darling of the Lackawanna Railroad.  She was able to travel in white on the Lackawanna without fear of her clothes being soiled by soot because the Lackawanna locomotives burned more expensive anthracite coal, hence the moniker of  "The Road of Anthracite."  For those of you too young to remember coal fired furnaces and stoves, coal comes in three flavors - dirty (anthracite), dirtier (bituminous/sub-bituminous), and dirtiest (lignite), and was priced accordingly.

In in her day, Phoebe Snow, graced magazines, billboards, newspapers and streetcars. The ad copy featured rhymes extolling the virtues of the Lackawanna Railroad - courtesy, safety, comfort, and pleasure. While the rhymes seem juvenile today, in 1904 they were described as "tripping, lilting rhymes, associated with a form feminine equally dainty."

Phoebe fell on hard times about 1914, being eventually dropped by the railroad only to return briefly hawking cosmetics and underwear.  In the 1940's the Lackawanna gave her a facelift, and brought her back for another twenty years.

The Phoebe Snow Cocktail is from The How and When by Marco, 1940.






Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Some Like It Hot (Toddy)

Let me start by disabusing you of any thought that this blog post will have anything to do with a great Marilyn Monroe movie, or that sexy "ice cream blonde" of yesteryear - Thelma Todd aka "Hot Toddy." Rather, since the weather is turning chilly, we are going to talk about a couple of traditional hot drinks. Those pics are a great hook though, aren't they?

The first, and one of my favorites is Hot Gin, a drink with a considerable history dating to the 1700's (by 1825 "piss-quick" was established in English slang for gin and water). Medically, hot gin was was prescribed for dozens of ailments. Considered a stimulant during the day, a drink to "promote repose" in the evening, and a treatment for cholera.  Into the 1890's, a hot gin was considered appropriate for female "pelvic complaints" such as dysmenorrhea - used to such a degree that the medical journal Lancet expressed concern that hot gin was contributing to alcoholism amongst women.

Hot gin is also featured in English literature, making several appearances in works by authors as prominent as Charles Dickens.  In Oliver Twist, Fagin gives Oliver a hot gin after his  first meal with the artful Dodger, and the gang, to put him to sleep.  Later, Mr. Bumble, on seeing a newspaper item regarding Oliver, dashes off "...actually in his excitement" leaving his evening "glass of hot gin and water untasted."  Criminal waste!

Traditional recipes for Hot Gin vary only slightly and I enjoy them all.  If you have a favorite gin, use it.  If not, use whatever is handy.

The earliest recipe employs water, hot or cold - "Hot acts the quickest" per an early 1800’s writer, in a 2:1 ratio.  This was nicknamed “soap-suds” or, as previously mentioned, “piss-quick.” 

A more genteel and tasty drink is the Hot Gin Sling.  Put one spoon of sugar in a hot drink glass, or cup, fill half way (about 4 ounces) with hot water, add a jigger of gin, stir, add a piece of bruised lemon peel and dust with nutmeg.

Toss in a couple of cloves and a bit of allspice, and you now have a Hot Spiced Gin.

To make a Hot Gin Punch (my preferred variant) add the juice of 1/4 lemon, and a thin slice of lemon to the basic Hot Gin Sling recipe.

The gin drinks above are essentially a gin "toddy." Today a toddy, or "tottie", is nothing more than spirits mixed with hot water, sugar, and spices or flavoring to taste. Spirits, water (hot or cold), and sugar were the basic toddy of yore.

We primarily think of a toddy as using whiskey - bourbon, rye, scotch, or Canadian, will do.  Traditionally, after a hospitable dinner, a host would bring a kettle of hot water to the table, along with assorted spirits such as whiskey, brandy, rum, and port, allowing the guests to mix "toddies" to their taste.  Tumblers and wine glasses were the glassware of choice In the home.

Like hot gin, the hot toddy was considered to be of medicinal value.  It was recommended for the treatment of colds (including those of children), gout, and heat stroke.

A stanza from a "dramatic" poem penned by Irish dramatist John O'Keefe in 1790 seems more a limerick today - "cannon loud 'gainst cannon ranting; At his gun, poor Jack see panting; As to lip he lifts the Toddy; Off flies head and down drops body."

Widely appreciated, the toddy was enjoyed by notables as Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns, Ulysses S. Grant, Jefferson Davis, and Mark Twain.  A drink that wears its years well, continues to be popular today, and is perfect for that quiet evening at home.

Black Box Warning - In the 1790's for those preaching temperance, just as marijuana was regarded the gateway drug by do-goods of my generation, the toddy was regarded a the gateway drink to alcoholism in theirs.  The evening toddy was said to lead to "drams in the morning, and afterward (drinkers) have paid their lives as the price of their folly."

Having been warned, tempt fate and try a toddy this evening by substituting your favorite spirit, including flavored ones, for the gin in the recipes above and changing the name accordingly.  The Hot Gin Punch becomes a Hot Rum Punch or Hot Whiskey Punch. Too strong? Titrate the water to your taste. Too sweet, or not sweet enough---adjust your sugar.  If you like cinnamon sticks or vanilla beans, use them.


The Hot Gin and the Toddy are "old as the hills" and some of the easiest to personalize.
Book of Toasts, Autrim, 1902