Head Barkeeper’s Drink List 1911 A Window into a Pre-Prohibition Hotel Bar

 

While looking for something to do around the house and not really wanting to do anything, I was sorting books and came across an envelope with a piece of pre-Prohibition mixology ephemera I had purchased on a whim and then forgotten. Thinking it would be better to mount it on an acid free board and mat rather than leaving it in a battered envelope, it became that day’s task, giving me a chance to use some of my left-over supplies from when photography had been a hobby. 

The roughly 11.25”x17.5” poster’s letterhead reads “Mack Latz, Hotel Alamac, Atlantic City, 1911”

 

 In the advertising of the day, the popular Hotel Alamac, in Atlantic City, was “Plumb on the Boardwalk” and claimed to be the only hotel with its own pier. The hotels name came from combining the first names of the couple who owned it, Mack and Allah Latz.  According to a ladies magazine article of the period Allah, Mack’s wife, managed the hotel. Since Mack was regarded as a respected businessman, it seems likely he would have been something equivalent to a CEO.

 Beneath the letterhead, the document is titled “Head Barkeeper’s Drink List” with the admonition “To be posted at back of bar.”  The poster is printed on a lightweight paper, showing its age with small tears, chips and staining.  Intended as an aid for hotel barkeeps, there are short, specific instructions for the preparation and serving of 88 libations listed in alphabetical order.  The drinks are all old standards with the exception of the “Alamac Special,” a drink seemingly absent from bar books I could consult.  A similar drink in cocktail form appears in Meier’s 1936 Artistry of Mixing Drinks as the Maple Leaf.  Today’s Apple Jack Sour is very similar to the original Almanac Special.

 Prices are absent and the print size small, making it unlikely bar patrons would be able to read it.  At the end of the list there are house rules including “Ladies may not stand at the Bar” and that “Drinks must not be given or sold to anyone on the Jag List”.

 While keeping ladies from standing at the bar is amusing, though not surprising considering the era, the “Jag list” is worthy of note. At first, I assumed it was the drunkard equivalent of the unofficial list we kept in the Emergency Room, many pre-politically correct years ago, of drug seeking “frequent flyers.”  Not so, it was much more complicated than that.

According to the American Dictionary and Cyclopedia of 1896,

 “To have a jag on” was slang for “being in a state of partial intoxication: the idea being that when a man is fully intoxicated he has a load, but that when he is only partly intoxicated he has on only a jag.”

By the early 1900’s there are mentions of mayors, judges and others having jag lists of  “those to whom liquor may not be sold.” These were not merely unofficial lists. They were required by laws responding to drunkenness. For example, a New York Times article of 1915, said that East Orange, New Jersey

 “…is going to have a jag list.  Men who are addicted to drink and are constantly giving their families and police trouble, are to have their names pasted up on all licensed liquor places, and the owners and their employees are to be instructed to refuse them drink of any kind.  In the event of their failure to comply with this command they will be subject to a fine.”

 Other jurisdictions went even further by pulling and refusing liquor licenses to establishments that failed to meet “jag list” laws.  In Hazelton, Pennsylvania it was reported that

“Liquor dealers asked that the city furnish them with photographs of those in the habit of “taking a wee drop too much,” on the “jag list” in other words, so that they may recognize them, and help in stopping the practice.”

The house rules in the Head Barkeeper’s Drink List also specify the bars operating hours, which must
have been regulated by Atlantic City codes. It states “Bar doors must be closed at 11:50 Saturday night.  Bar lights out at 12 sharp.  Bar opens Sunday night 12 o’clock for one hour.” That one hour between 2400 and 0100 must certainly have been interesting.

 I have searched for copies of this poster and cannot find any other examples.  Alas, it seems unique, leaving one other question, the date of actual publication. The printing information in the bottom right corner is chipped and reads

 “This list reprinted November 8, 19 (paper missing) by Milton Latz, Knife and Fork Inn, Atlantic and Pacific Aves., Atlantic City, N (paper missing) 25 Cents a Copy.

 
The Knife & Fork Inn, in addition to having been a popular restaurant, had also been a speak-easy during Prohibition. After being raided and its liquor supplies confiscated, it was taken over in 1927 by Milton Latz, Mack Latz’s brother. Since Latz ownership of the inn dates to 1927, this document would appear to be a Prohibition era souvenir tribute to the “Good Old Days” printed in the late 1920’s or early 1930’s.  In any case, it is still a window into a pre-Prohibition hotel bar.

Some Like It Hot (Toddy)

Let me start by disabusing you of any thought that this blog post will have anything to do with a great Marilyn Monroe movie, or that sexy "ice cream blonde" of yesteryear - Thelma Todd aka "Hot Toddy." Rather, since the weather is turning chilly, we are going to talk about a couple of traditional hot drinks. Those pics are a great hook though, aren't they?

The first, and one of my favorites is Hot Gin, a drink with a considerable history dating to the 1700's (by 1825 "piss-quick" was established in English slang for gin and water). Medically, hot gin was was prescribed for dozens of ailments. Considered a stimulant during the day, a drink to "promote repose" in the evening, and a treatment for cholera.  Into the 1890's, a hot gin was considered appropriate for female "pelvic complaints" such as dysmenorrhea - used to such a degree that the medical journal Lancet expressed concern that hot gin was contributing to alcoholism amongst women.

Hot gin is also featured in English literature, making several appearances in works by authors as prominent as Charles Dickens.  In Oliver Twist, Fagin gives Oliver a hot gin after his  first meal with the artful Dodger, and the gang, to put him to sleep.  Later, Mr. Bumble, on seeing a newspaper item regarding Oliver, dashes off "...actually in his excitement" leaving his evening "glass of hot gin and water untasted."  Criminal waste!

Traditional recipes for Hot Gin vary only slightly and I enjoy them all.  If you have a favorite gin, use it.  If not, use whatever is handy.

The earliest recipe employs water, hot or cold - "Hot acts the quickest" per an early 1800’s writer, in a 2:1 ratio.  This was nicknamed “soap-suds” or, as previously mentioned, “piss-quick.” 

A more genteel and tasty drink is the Hot Gin Sling.  Put one spoon of sugar in a hot drink glass, or cup, fill half way (about 4 ounces) with hot water, add a jigger of gin, stir, add a piece of bruised lemon peel and dust with nutmeg.

Toss in a couple of cloves and a bit of allspice, and you now have a Hot Spiced Gin.

To make a Hot Gin Punch (my preferred variant) add the juice of 1/4 lemon, and a thin slice of lemon to the basic Hot Gin Sling recipe.

The gin drinks above are essentially a gin "toddy." Today a toddy, or "tottie", is nothing more than spirits mixed with hot water, sugar, and spices or flavoring to taste. Spirits, water (hot or cold), and sugar were the basic toddy of yore.

We primarily think of a toddy as using whiskey - bourbon, rye, scotch, or Canadian, will do.  Traditionally, after a hospitable dinner, a host would bring a kettle of hot water to the table, along with assorted spirits such as whiskey, brandy, rum, and port, allowing the guests to mix "toddies" to their taste.  Tumblers and wine glasses were the glassware of choice In the home.

Like hot gin, the hot toddy was considered to be of medicinal value.  It was recommended for the treatment of colds (including those of children), gout, and heat stroke.

A stanza from a "dramatic" poem penned by Irish dramatist John O'Keefe in 1790 seems more a limerick today - "cannon loud 'gainst cannon ranting; At his gun, poor Jack see panting; As to lip he lifts the Toddy; Off flies head and down drops body."

Widely appreciated, the toddy was enjoyed by notables as Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns, Ulysses S. Grant, Jefferson Davis, and Mark Twain.  A drink that wears its years well, continues to be popular today, and is perfect for that quiet evening at home.

Black Box Warning - In the 1790's for those preaching temperance, just as marijuana was regarded the gateway drug by do-goods of my generation, the toddy was regarded a the gateway drink to alcoholism in theirs.  The evening toddy was said to lead to "drams in the morning, and afterward (drinkers) have paid their lives as the price of their folly."

Having been warned, tempt fate and try a toddy this evening by substituting your favorite spirit, including flavored ones, for the gin in the recipes above and changing the name accordingly.  The Hot Gin Punch becomes a Hot Rum Punch or Hot Whiskey Punch. Too strong? Titrate the water to your taste. Too sweet, or not sweet enough---adjust your sugar.  If you like cinnamon sticks or vanilla beans, use them.

The Hot Gin and the Toddy are "old as the hills" and some of the easiest to personalize.

Book of Toasts, Autrim, 1902